Let’s talk about Gandia – and I mean properly talk about it, not just the usual tourist blurb you’ll find plastered all over the travel websites. This Valencia province gem has been flying under the radar for years, mainly because the Spanish (particularly the Madrileños) have been keeping it as their personal playground. But the secret’s out now, and frankly, it’s about time.
Gandia isn’t your typical Costa del Sol tourist trap. This place has managed something that most Spanish coastal towns can only dream of – it’s successfully separated its tourism side from daily life. The city centre sits about two kilometres inland from the beach, which means you get the best of both worlds: a proper Spanish town with centuries of history, and a brilliant beach resort that doesn’t completely shut down come October.
I’ve been visiting Gandia for years, and what keeps drawing me back is this perfect balance. You can spend your morning exploring the Borgia palaces and Gothic churches, then be lounging on a Blue Flag beach by lunchtime. It’s this combination that makes Gandia special – it’s not just a beach destination, it’s a proper place with a proper history.
The Tale of Two Cities: Gandia City vs Gandia Playa
What’s the difference between Gandia City and Gandia Playa?
This is probably the most important question to answer before you even think about visiting. Gandia is essentially two different places sharing the same name, and understanding this will completely change how you experience the area.
Gandia City is the historical heart – the old town with its narrow streets, magnificent palaces, Gothic churches, and excellent shopping. This is where the locals live year-round, where you’ll find the best restaurants serving proper Valencian cuisine, and where the Saturday morning market brings the whole community together.
Gandia Playa, on the other hand, is the purpose-built beach resort. It’s apartment blocks, chiringuitos, nightclubs, and that brilliant 5.8-kilometre stretch of Blue Flag beaches. During summer, it’s absolutely buzzing with Spanish families from Madrid and an increasing number of international visitors.
The beauty is that they’re close enough to enjoy both, but separate enough that neither overwhelms the other. You can have a quiet coffee in the old town’s main square, then be in the thick of beach life within ten minutes.
The Borgia Connection: Gandia’s Claim to Fame
What’s all this about the Borgias in Gandia?
Ah, now we’re getting to the good stuff. Gandia isn’t just another pretty coastal town – it’s the birthplace of two popes and the heart of one of Renaissance Europe’s most notorious families. The Borgias (or Borjas, as they’re known in Spanish) put this place on the map in a big way.
The family’s 14th-century Ducal Palace still dominates the old town, and it’s absolutely worth the visit. This isn’t some dusty museum piece – it’s a living piece of history with the Golden Gallery that’ll make your jaw drop and the Crown Hall that oozes power and prestige.
But here’s the thing that really gets me: Saint Francis Borgia, the 4th Duke of Gandia, founded the first Jesuit college here in 1546. So you’ve got this fascinating contrast – a family known for political machinations and papal scandals, producing a saint who devoted his life to education and religious reform.
You can’t walk through Gandia’s old town without bumping into Borgia history. There’s even a bronze statue group by Manuel Boix in the Plaza de las Escuelas Pías featuring five family members: Popes Calixtus III and Alexander VI, César and Lucrezia Borgia, and Saint Francis Borgia himself.
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