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Dave In Spain

Get the honest reviews about places to eat and information about living in Spain.

lovely Retamar Almeria

Retamar Almeria: Your Complete Guide To This Coastal Gem

HeyDaveHere, July 4, 2025July 4, 2025

Picture this: you’ve just stepped off the plane at Almería Airport, the Mediterranean sun warming your face, and you’re wondering where to head for that perfect blend of authentic Spanish coastal living without the tourist hordes. Well, mate, let me introduce you to Retamar Almeria – a delightful stretch of coastline that embodies everything brilliant about Spain’s lesser-known gems.

Retamar sits prettily along the Costa de Almería, roughly 20 kilometers east of Almería city, offering visitors that sweet spot between accessibility and authenticity. This coastal area has managed to maintain its Spanish character while providing enough amenities to keep visitors thoroughly content.

Retamar beach, Gulf of Almeria

Getting There and Getting Around Retamar Almeria

Your journey to Retamar Almeria typically begins at Almería Airport (LEI), which sits conveniently just 15 kilometers away – about a 20-minute drive along the coastal road. The airport handles flights from major European cities, making it surprisingly accessible for such a relatively undiscovered destination.

Public transport to Retamar runs via the ALSA bus service from Almería city center, with regular connections throughout the day. Check the Omio app for tickets and timetables.

The journey takes approximately 30 minutes and costs around €2-3 per person. If you’re planning to explore the wider region, though, I’d strongly recommend hiring a car – it opens up the entire Costa de Almería and gives you the freedom to discover those hidden coves and mountain villages at your own pace.

Retamar (Almeria), Fabriquilla beach

Peak Season Considerations

Retamar experiences its busiest period from mid-June through early September, when Spanish families traditionally take their summer holidays. August can feel particularly lively, with beach bars humming and every parking spot at a premium. However, this is also when the area truly comes alive – beach volleyball games spring up spontaneously, evening paseos stretch late into the night, and the local restaurants buzz with conversation and laughter.

For a more relaxed experience, consider visiting Retamar Almeria during the shoulder seasons (May-June or September-October) when temperatures remain beautifully warm but crowds thin out considerably. Winter months see many seasonal businesses close, but the weather remains surprisingly mild for those seeking peace and tranquility.

Retamar (Almeria), Retamar beach

Must-Visit Spots in Retamar

Playa de Retamar stretches for nearly two kilometers of golden sand, backed by low-rise developments that maintain the area’s relaxed atmosphere. The beach offers excellent swimming conditions with generally calm waters, making it perfect for families. Beach bars (chiringuitos) dot the shoreline, serving fresh seafood and cold beer practically on the sand.

Playa del Retamar
Playa del Retamar

Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park begins just beyond Retamar’s eastern edge, offering some of Europe’s most dramatic coastal scenery. The park encompasses volcanic landscapes, hidden beaches, and traditional fishing villages that seem frozen in time. It’s a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, protecting unique desert-meets-sea ecosystems found nowhere else in Europe.

Peaceful Retamar beach

Retamar Q&A: Everything You Need to Know

What’s the best time of year to visit Retamar? May through October offers the sweet spot for most visitors. May and September-October provide warm weather (22-26°C) with fewer crowds and reasonable accommodation prices. July-August brings peak temperatures (28-32°C) and maximum energy, but also peak crowds and prices. Winter months (December-February) see temperatures around 16-18°C – pleasant for walking and exploring, though some beach facilities close.

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What’s the parking situation like in and around Retamar? Parking proves relatively straightforward compared to many Spanish coastal destinations. Free street parking exists throughout most residential areas, though spaces near the beach fill quickly during summer months. Several small car parks serve the main beach area, typically charging €3-5 per day during peak season. Most accommodation provides parking, and many restaurants offer customer parking in the evenings.

Paseo del Toyo Retamar

How accessible is Retamar for people with limited mobility? The main beach at Retamar features wooden walkways extending from the promenade onto the sand, making beach access possible for wheelchair users. See the Paseo Marítimo de Retamar image here, as an example.

Paseo Marítimo de Retamar
Paseo Marítimo de Retamar



Several restaurants and bars along the seafront provide level access, and the area’s flat topography makes general navigation easier than in many Spanish coastal towns. However, some older establishments and certain coastal paths may present challenges.

Where are the best viewpoints for photos around Retamar Almeria? The rocky outcrops at either end of Playa de Retamar offer excellent elevated perspectives of the coastline. For more dramatic shots, head to the Cabo de Gata lighthouse (about 15 minutes’ drive), which provides spectacular panoramic views over volcanic cliffs and the Mediterranean. Early morning and late afternoon light create the most striking conditions for photography.

Exploring the Wider Area

El Toyo sits just west of Retamar, known primarily for its championship golf course and marina development. The area offers upscale dining options and a more manicured feel than Retamar proper. The marina hosts several good seafood restaurants with outdoor terraces overlooking the boats.

Cabo de Gata village lies about 10 kilometers east, a traditional fishing settlement with narrow streets and whitewashed houses. The village church, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Mar, dates from the 18th century and sits picturesquely near the harbor. Local fishermen still bring their daily catch to the small port each morning.

Local Life and Traditions

Retamar Almeria maintains strong connections to traditional Andalusian coastal culture. Evening paseos (leisurely walks) remain an integral part of daily life, with families strolling the promenade as temperatures cool. Local bars serve tapas in the traditional style – small plates accompanying drinks, often included in the price.

The area’s fishing heritage continues through several family-run restaurants specializing in fresh local catch. Pescado a la sal (fish baked in salt) and various rice dishes reflect the region’s culinary traditions, while beach bars serve excellent grilled sardines and prawns.

Summer evenings bring impromptu gatherings on the beach, with groups of friends sharing food and music as stars emerge overhead. This spontaneous social culture provides visitors with authentic glimpses into contemporary Spanish coastal life.

Palmeral del Toyo Paseo Marítimo
Palmeral del Toyo Paseo Marítimo

Planning Your Visit

Retamar succeeds as a destination precisely because it hasn’t tried too hard to become one. It remains refreshingly Spanish, offering visitors the chance to experience Mediterranean coastal life as locals actually live it. Whether you’re seeking active beach days, quiet coastal walks, or simply a place to enjoy excellent food with your toes in the sand, this stretch of the Costa de Almería delivers without pretension.

The combination of accessibility, authenticity, and natural beauty makes Retamar an ideal base for exploring Andalusia’s eastern coast. Pack light, bring your appetite for fresh seafood, and prepare to discover one of Spain’s most genuine coastal experiences.

If you enjoy the peaceful beach time, this is the place to be!

Sightseeing and Landmarks Popular Destinations Travel and Exploration Almería

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