Mojacar, Almeria’s stunning whitewashed hilltop village and beach resort. From ancient Moorish streets to 17km of pristine beaches, explore Spain’s best-kept secret in the Costa de Almeria.
Right then, let’s talk about Mojacar – and I mean properly talk about it, not just give you the usual tourist board waffle. This little slice of Spanish paradise has been quietly getting on with being absolutely brilliant while everyone else has been stampeding off to the overcrowded costas. More fool them, I say.
Mojacar isn’t just another pretty Spanish village – though bloody hell, it is pretty – it’s a place that’s managed to keep its soul intact whilst still rolling out the welcome mat for visitors. Perched up in the Sierra Cabrera foothills like a wedding cake made of whitewashed cubes, this ancient pueblo has been watching over the Mediterranean for centuries, and it’s got stories to tell.
Two Sides of the Same Brilliant Coin
Here’s the thing about Mojacar that makes it special – it’s actually two places in one. You’ve got Mojacar Pueblo, the original hilltop village that looks like someone took a Moroccan kasbah and gave it a Spanish makeover, and then down below you’ve got Mojacar Playa, where 17 kilometres of gorgeous beaches stretch out like a golden ribbon along the coast. They’re only 3km apart, but they might as well be different worlds – and that’s exactly what makes this place so compelling.
The pueblo sits pretty at 175 metres above sea level, its cube-shaped houses tumbling down the hillside like dice scattered by a generous giant. From up there, you can see for miles – the Mediterranean sparkling in the distance, the surrounding hills rolling away like green-brown velvet, and that magnificent coastline stretching north and south. It’s the sort of view that makes you want to chuck in your job and become a goat herder or something suitably romantic.
A History That Actually Matters
Now, I’m not one for boring you senseless with dates and dusty old facts, but Mojacar’s history is actually worth knowing because it explains why the place feels so special. This isn’t some modern resort knocked up for package tourists – people have been living here since the Bronze Age, around 2000 BC. The Phoenicians were here, then the Romans, then the Moors arrived in the 8th century and left their mark so deeply that you can still feel it in every narrow street and whitewashed wall.
The story that really gets me is about the peaceful surrender to the Catholic Monarchs in the 15th century. The Moorish governor, faced with losing everything, made this incredibly brave speech saying he’d rather “die as a Spaniard” than “surrender like a coward” – but only if his people could stay on their land and live in peace. Amazingly, it worked. The Christians agreed, and Mojacar was handed over without a drop of blood being spilled. There’s a plaque by the fountain commemorating this moment, and every time I read it, I get a bit emotional. It’s rare to find a place where different cultures genuinely lived side by side rather than one wiping out the other.
If you like the Spanish churches, take 10 minutes to explore the Iglesia de Santa María.
Don’t get me wrong, I am not religious in any way, shape or form, but I do find the old churches cooling in the hot weather and quite relaxing as well as admiring the decor.
The Village: Getting Gloriously Lost
The best way to experience Mojacar Pueblo is to park your car (there’s underground parking if you’re lucky, or the main car park if you’re not) and just wander. Forget the map for a bit – you’re not going to fall off a cliff or anything, and getting lost in these streets is half the fun.
The narrow cobbled lanes twist and turn like a drunken snake, lined with those brilliant white houses that gleam in the Almerian sunshine. Every corner reveals something new – a tiny plaza with a ancient tree providing blessed shade, a restaurant terrace hanging over the hillside like something from a film set, or one of those perfect doorways framed with terracotta pots spilling over with geraniums.
The main square, Plaza Nueva, is where the action happens. It’s got that lovely Spanish buzz about it – locals chatting over their cortados, tourists trying to work out which restaurant to try, kids running about being generally chaotic. There’s a mirador here that gives you those spectacular views I mentioned, and it’s the perfect spot for a drink as the sun starts to sink towards the horizon.
If you’re feeling energetic (and in this heat, that’s a big if), climb up to the Mirador del Castillo at the very top of the village. It’s a bit of a slog up more cobbled streets, but the views are absolutely worth it. You can see the entire coastline spread out below you, and on a clear day, you might even spot the mountains of the Sierra Nevada glinting in the distance.
The Fountain and the Surrender
You absolutely must visit La Fuente Moro, the village fountain that’s been the heart of Mojacar for centuries. This isn’t just any old fountain – it’s where the Moorish governor made his famous speech, and locals still come here to fill up their water bottles because the water’s supposedly better than what comes out of the taps. Whether that’s true or just tradition, I couldn’t say, but there’s something rather lovely about it.
The fountain has twelve spouts, and above them is that commemorative plaque I mentioned. It’s written in both Spanish and Arabic, which rather nicely sums up Mojacar’s character – a place where different worlds meet and somehow make something beautiful together.
Eating and Drinking Like a Local
Now, you didn’t come all this way to eat chips and beans, so let me point you towards some proper tucker. The restaurants up in the pueblo tend to be a bit special – they have to be, really, because they’ve got those views to live up to.
I’ve had some cracking meals at places tucked away in the narrow streets, often in buildings that are centuries old but serving food that’s anything but old-fashioned. The local fish is superb – we’re talking about stuff that was swimming in the Mediterranean yesterday and is on your plate today. The prawns from nearby Garrutxa are legendary; they’re so fresh they practically wave at you from the plate.
Don’t miss the Wednesday morning market either. It’s not just tourist tat (though there’s plenty of that if you’re after souvenirs) – you’ll find proper local produce, the sort of fruit and vegetables that actually taste like they’re supposed to. The stallholders are mostly locals, and they’re usually up for a chat if your Spanish is up to it.
Down to the Beach: Mojacar Playa
Right, enough mountain air – let’s talk beaches. Mojacar Playa is where you go when you’ve had enough culture and just want to lie on some sand with a cold drink within arm’s reach. And what sand it is – 17 kilometres of the stuff, ranging from busy resort beaches with all the facilities to hidden coves where you might be the only person for miles.
The main resort area has that low-rise, Andalucian feel that stops it from looking like some concrete carbuncle. There are plenty of chiringuitos (beach bars) where you can get everything from a simple bocadillo to a proper paella. The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly during the day, but it can get quite lively in the evening, especially in July and August when the Spanish families descend en masse for their holidays.
What I love about Mojacar’s beaches is the variety. You can have your resort experience with sunbeds and parasols and waiter service, or you can walk a bit further and find yourself on a pristine stretch of sand with nothing but the sound of the waves and the occasional seagull. Some of the hidden beaches require a bit of scrambling down rough paths, but that just means fewer people and more space to spread out.
Adventures Beyond the Beach
If lying on a beach drinking sangria isn’t adventurous enough for you (and fair play if it is – we’re not all adrenaline junkies), there’s plenty more to get your teeth into around Mojacar.
The boat trips out to the Cabo de Gata Marine Reserve are absolutely brilliant. For about 30 euros, you’ll be taken out to waters so clear you can see the bottom, with opportunities for snorkelling that will make you feel like you’re swimming in an aquarium. The volcanic coastline is dramatic as anything, with cliffs and rock formations that look like something from another planet.
If you fancy something a bit different, head to Garrutxa for the fish auction. Yes, you read that right – a fish auction. Every weekday from 5pm to 6:30pm, the day’s catch gets sold off to the highest bidder. It’s proper theatre, all shouting and gesticulating, and the fish is so fresh it’s practically still arguing. Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s worth going just for the spectacle.
For the Western movie fans among you, there’s the Tabernas Desert about an hour inland. This is where Sergio Leone filmed “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” and the film sets are still there. Now, I’ll be honest – it’s a bit touristy and not cheap, but if you’re a proper Clint Eastwood fan, you might find it worth the trip. The landscape is genuinely spectacular, all desert and mountains and big skies that make you want to start humming Ennio Morricone tunes.
The Indalo: A Symbol Worth Knowing
You’ll see it everywhere in Mojacar – a stick figure with an arch over his head, painted on walls, carved into jewellery, embossed on t-shirts. This is the Indalo man, and he’s way more than just a tourist logo. The symbol dates back to prehistoric cave paintings found near Vélez Blanco, and it’s considered a good luck charm throughout Almeria province.
The modern association with Mojacar comes through the Indaliano Movement, founded by the painter Jesus de Perceval in the 1940s. It was a cultural movement that celebrated the unique character of this part of Spain, and in a way, it helped save Mojacar from the rural exodus that emptied so many Spanish villages in the mid-20th century.
The Festivals: When Mojacar Really Comes Alive
If you want to see Mojacar at its absolute best, try to time your visit with one of the major festivals. The big one is the Moors and Christians fiesta in early June – three days of elaborate costumes, mock battles, parades, and general mayhem that brings the whole story of the village’s peaceful surrender to life.
Watching the locals dress up as medieval warriors and reenact the events of 500 years ago might sound a bit silly, but it’s actually rather moving. The whole community gets involved, from tiny kids in miniature armour to grandparents who’ve been doing this for decades. The finale on Sunday evening, when the whole procession winds through the village streets and down to the fountain, is genuinely spectacular.
Easter Week is more solemn but equally impressive, with the Good Friday procession following a statue of Christ up the steep streets to the church. Christmas brings the Three Kings parade on January 5th, which is when Spanish children traditionally get their presents.
Practical Stuff: Getting There and Getting About
Mojacar is about an hour’s drive from Almeria airport, which gets flights from various UK airports. You can also fly into Murcia, which is about 90 minutes away, or even Alicante if you don’t mind a longer drive.
Once you’re there, you can easily walk between the pueblo and the playa if you’re feeling energetic, or there’s a regular bus service. In the village itself, everything’s walkable, though be warned – those cobbled streets can be murder on your ankles if you’re not wearing proper shoes.
Parking in the village can be a nightmare in high season, so either arrive early or use the underground car park if you can find a space. Down at the beach, parking’s much easier.
The Expat Factor
Mojacar has attracted quite a few British and other European residents over the years, drawn by the climate, the scenery, and the relatively affordable property prices. This means you’ll often hear English spoken in the bars and restaurants, and many places have English menus. Some people see this as a good thing, others as rather missing the point of being in Spain. I think it just is what it is – Mojacar has always been a place where different cultures have rubbed along together.
Weather: When to Go
The short answer is: any time you like. Mojacar enjoys one of those lovely Mediterranean climates where winter barely counts as winter and summer goes on forever. Even in January, you’ll often find yourself sitting outside in shirtsleeves during the day, though you might want a jumper for the evenings.
July and August can be properly hot – we’re talking 35°C and beyond – so if you’re not good with heat, maybe aim for May, June, September, or October. These months also have the advantage of being less crowded and cheaper, while still offering plenty of sunshine and warm enough weather for swimming.
The Food Scene: Beyond Paella
While you can certainly get a decent paella in Mojacar (just make sure to order it in advance), the local food scene offers much more than the usual tourist fare. The proximity to the sea means excellent fish and seafood, while the inland location provides wonderful vegetables and fruits from the fertile valleys.
The local red prawns from Garrutxa are a particular delicacy – expensive, but worth every euro. The tapas scene is strong too, with many bars offering proper traditional tapas rather than the tourist versions you get in some coastal resorts.
Don’t miss trying some of the local wines either. Almeria might not be as famous as Rioja or Ribera del Duero, but the desert climate produces some interesting and distinctive wines that pair brilliantly with the local cuisine.
Shopping: Beyond the Tourist Tat
The Wednesday market in the pueblo is your best bet for local produce and genuine crafts. There are also some interesting little shops tucked away in the narrow streets, selling everything from handmade leather goods to vintage fashion.
For everyday shopping, the Mercadona supermarket in nearby Carboneras is your best bet – it’s large, well-stocked, and reasonably priced. If you need to shop on a Sunday, there are smaller supermarkets near the beach that stay open, though they’re more expensive and cater mainly to tourists.
The Verdict: Why Mojacar Works
So why does Mojacar work when so many other Spanish coastal destinations have sold their souls to mass tourism? I think it’s because the place has managed to grow gradually and thoughtfully. The development has been mostly low-rise and sympathetic to the landscape. The original village has been preserved and enhanced rather than buried under concrete. And perhaps most importantly, there’s still a real Spanish community here – it’s not just a tourist theme park.
Mojacar offers something for everyone: history buffs can explore the narrow streets and learn about the fascinating cultural mix that created this place. Beach lovers can choose from 17 kilometres of coastline ranging from busy resort beaches to hidden coves. Foodies can eat everything from traditional tapas to innovative modern cuisine. And if you just want to sit with a drink and watch the world go by, there are few better places to do it.
The key to enjoying Mojacar is not to rush. This isn’t a place for ticking things off a list – it’s a place for slowing down, taking your time, and letting the rhythm of Spanish life wash over you. Sit in a plaza with a coffee and watch the locals go about their business. Take a long lunch that stretches into the afternoon. Stay up late and join the evening paseo when the heat of the day has passed.
In short, Mojacar is what a lot of Spain used to be like before mass tourism changed everything – authentic, beautiful, welcoming, and genuinely relaxing. If you’re looking for somewhere that feels properly Spanish but still has enough facilities to keep you comfortable, you could do a lot worse than giving this little corner of Almeria a try.
Trust me on this one – Mojacar will get under your skin, and once it does, you’ll find yourself planning your next visit before you’ve even left. This is even before you watch A Place In The Sun or New Life In The Sun!
