What Is La Semana Santa and Why Is Everyone Wearing Hoods?
Ah, La Semana Santa in Spain.
A week where entire cities grind to a halt, brass bands play music designed to make you cry in public, and thousands of people in pointed hoods and flowing robes parade through the streets… all while tourists stand there wondering if they’ve accidentally walked onto the set of a historical drama.
Let’s clear something up straight away:
✅ Yes, those pointed hoods are part of a centuries-old Catholic tradition and have absolutely nothing to do with the KKK.
✅ Yes, the atmosphere is powerful enough to make even the most cynical visitor go quiet for a moment.
✅ And yes, if you don’t plan ahead, you’ll probably get stuck on the wrong side of the road with no way of crossing for hours.
So, let’s dive into what La Semana Santa in Spain really is… and why it’s one of the most unforgettable (and at times, logistically frustrating) weeks in the Spanish calendar.
🕰️ A Brief (But Not Boring) History of La Semana Santa in Spain
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is the week leading up to Easter Sunday, commemorating the final days, crucifixion, and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
And in typical Spanish style, they don’t do it quietly.
The roots of these processions go back to the Middle Ages, but it was the 16th and 17th centuries that really saw them take shape.
Thanks to the Counter-Reformation, the Catholic Church wanted to put on big, dramatic, emotionally stirring displays of faith.
(Translation: More floats, more costumes, more incense… and as many tears as possible.)
Religious brotherhoods and confraternities (Cofradías and Hermandades)—many of which still exist today—were formed. Their job?
✅ Build and maintain the enormous religious floats (“Pasos”)
✅ Organise the penitents (Nazarenos)
✅ Plan the processional routes
✅ And make sure Semana Santa never shrinks to something as low-key as just going to church on Sunday
Fast forward to today, and La Semana Santa in Spain is now:
✅ A major cultural, religious and tourist event, this years celebrations proved just that!
✅ A source of deep local pride
✅ And for first-timers… a baffling but beautiful sensory overload of sound, colour, incense and emotion
🎭 What Actually Happens During La Semana Santa in Spain?
Let’s set the scene.
Imagine this:
✅ Streets closed to traffic
✅ Thousands of people lining the pavements
✅ Solemn, slow-moving processions
✅ Life-size wooden sculptures of Jesus, the Virgin Mary, and various Saints, each mounted on a multi-tonne float, wobbling their way through narrow streets
✅ Bands playing slow, mournful brass music (Marchas Procesionales)
✅ People in robes and tall pointed hoods (Nazarenos and Penitentes) walking in long, candle-lit lines
✅ The air thick with incense smoke and emotion
And this isn’t some 30-minute parade like you’d see in a village fête.
Nope. Some processions start at 2am and finish at sunrise.
Others take eight hours to cover three streets because stopping for dramatic effect is part of the deal.
🙏 Who Are These People in Hoods?
The Nazarenos are the members of each brotherhood.
They wear:
✅ Long robes (usually in the brotherhood’s colours)
✅ Pointed hoods called capirotes (covering the face, symbolising humility and repentance)
✅ Many carry candles, wooden crosses, or banners
Some walk barefoot. Others carry chains as an act of penance.
And no—they’re not scary.
They’re devout locals fulfilling family traditions, some going back hundreds of years.
🎶 The Music: Why You’ll Feel Emotional Even If You Don’t Know Why
The bands (often made up of locals from music schools or even military regiments) are there to crank up the emotional atmosphere.
Expect:
✅ Slow, funeral-style drumming
✅ Trumpet and brass solos designed to give you goosebumps
✅ Occasional spontaneous singing of “Saetas” (traditional flamenco-style laments sung from balconies as the Virgin or Christ floats pass)
Warning:
You may find yourself getting a lump in your throat.
It happens. Even to grumpy tourists.
⏰ How Long Does La Semana Santa Last?
Officially, it runs from:
- Palm Sunday (29 March 2026)
Through to - Easter Sunday (5 April 2026)
But in cities like Seville and Malaga, preparations start months in advance, and you’ll often see rehearsal processions and church events from mid-March onwards.
📍 Best Cities to Experience La Semana Santa in Spain: Where the Drama, Devotion, and Drumbeats Hit Different
Let’s be honest—La Semana Santa isn’t done the same everywhere in Spain.
Some places go full-on Hollywood production with thousands of participants, float-sized statues, and bands that’ll make your eardrums vibrate for days.
Others are more about silence, solemnity, and emotional minimalism that leaves you awkwardly blinking back tears.
Here’s a brutally honest breakdown of where to go for the best Semana Santa experiences, depending on your vibe. Check platforms such as Omio for transport tickets and timetables.
🎺 1. Seville (Andalusia) – The Gold Standard of Semana Santa
If La Semana Santaa had a Eurovision, Seville would win every year, hands down.
✅ Home to over 60 different Cofradías (Brotherhoods)
✅ Processions run from Palm Sunday right through to Easter Sunday
✅ Floats (“Pasos”) that are literal works of art, carried by costaleros who train for months just to make the journey without passing out
✅ Brass bands that somehow manage to make a trumpet solo sound like your heart breaking
✅ Night processions, especially the famous “Madrugá” (overnight processions on the night between Maundy Thursday and Good Friday)
Expect:
✅ Huge crowds
✅ Goosebumps
✅ Long waits for a good viewing spot
✅ And at least one emotional moment that’ll catch you off guard
Dave’s Tip:
If this is your first Semana Santa, Seville is a baptism by fire—but totally worth it.
🎶 2. Málaga (Andalusia) – Big Floats, Big Crowds, Big Emotion
If Seville is all about solemnity and tradition, Málaga brings the drama and sheer spectacle.
✅ Some of the largest processional thrones (“tronos”) in Spain—we’re talking 4,000+ kilos per float
✅ Up to 250 men (portadores) carrying a single float
✅ Military parades mixed in (this is Málaga, after all)
✅ Actor Antonio Banderas famously takes part most years
✅ More of a celebratory vibe, especially compared to the hushed tones of Seville
Expect:
✅ Loud cheers when floats pass
✅ Applause for the costaleros
✅ And a general sense that the whole city is out on the streets
🕯️ 3. Valladolid (Castile and León) – Where Silence Speaks Volumes
If you’re after solemnity and haunting beauty, head north to Valladolid.
✅ The processions here are marked by near-total silence, except for the occasional single drumbeat or solemn choral music
✅ Many of the floats feature 16th and 17th-century wooden sculptures—some of Spain’s finest religious art
✅ The focus here is meditation, reflection, and serious emotional impact
Dave’s Tip:
This is not the place for loud kids or drunken sightseeing.
Come with respect… or don’t come at all.
🥁 4. Zamora (Castile and León) – The Oldest Semana Santa in Spain
Zamora claims to have Spain’s oldest Semana Santa celebrations, dating back to the 12th century.
✅ Processions are dark, atmospheric, and deeply traditional
✅ Many happen at night with participants walking in complete silence
✅ The city’s medieval streets add an extra layer of Game of Thrones-style drama
Expect:
✅ Candlelight
✅ Slow marches
✅ Chilling choral singing
✅ And locals who take this very, very seriously
📯 5. León (Castile and León) – Tradition Meets Artistry
León blends silence, art, and solemnity with beautifully crafted religious floats.
✅ Each brotherhood takes immense pride in their historically significant sculptures
✅ The “Procesión del Entierro” (Funeral Procession) on Good Friday is a highlight
✅ And yes… you’ll see entire families—grandparents to toddlers—all marching in the processions
🎼 6. Cuenca (Castile-La Mancha) – The Famous “Las Turbas” Chaos
For something a bit more… shall we say… chaotic and loud, head to Cuenca for the “Las Turbas” procession on Good Friday at dawn.
✅ Hundreds of people dressed as penitents and biblical figures
✅ Banging drums and making as much noise as possible
✅ Often referred to as the “Procession of the Turbas (the mob)“
✅ Less solemn, more… “enthusiastic confusion“
Dave’s Take:
If you love a bit of controlled chaos with your religion, this is your spot.
🎻 7. Cartagena (Murcia) – Military Precision Meets Passion
Known for its military-style processions, Cartagena’s Semana Santa is all about uniformed marching, impeccable timing, and massive floral floats.
✅ Everything moves in time
✅ Brass bands add extra theatre
✅ Processions are immaculately choreographed
🏵️ 8. Other Honourable Mentions
✅ Granada: Unique processions through the Albaicín and Sacromonte districts, plus a stunning “Alhambra at dusk” backdrop for night processions.
✅ Murcia City: Famous for elaborate floral decorations on floats.
✅ Alcalá de Henares (Madrid Region): Hosting the 2026 Congress of Holy Week for Spain’s World Heritage Cities, making it an especially good year to visit there.
Since moving to Spain, we have attended several of these events and although I am not really a religious person, it’s moving to see how much peoples faith comes to the fore when taking part in these processions.
