December in Manchester: grey skies, freezing rain, and the constant battle to keep your home heating bill below the GDP of a small nation. Fuerteventura in December: sunshine, sea breezes, and the peculiar joy of seeing Santa hats on palm trees. I managed to get across in November too, which you can read about here, over a coffee.
After three consecutive Decembers navigating the Christmas markets of Manchester with frozen fingers wrapped around overpriced mulled wine, I decided this year would be different. “Steve,” I told myself, “you deserve better than another month of vitamin D deficiency Let’s have a trip to Fuerteventura in December.” So I booked a fortnight in Fuerteventura, and blimey, was it the right decision!
The Winter Weather That Isn’t Really Winter
The first thing that hit me stepping off the plane wasn’t the heat – it was the light. That glorious, abundant sunshine that’s as rare as a decent cup of tea in Europe by December. While my mates back home were sending me photos of their frost-covered windscreens, I was debating whether SPF 30 would be sufficient (it wasn’t – my nose looks like a beacon guiding ships to shore).
Temperature-wise, Fuerteventura in December typically ranges from 18-22°C (64-72°F) during the day. That’s light jacket weather at worst, and t-shirt weather at best. I experienced several days where the mercury climbed above 23°C, though locals kept apologizing for the “cold spell” we were having. Bless them.
Evenings cool down to about 15-16°C (59-61°F), which feels properly chilly after a day in the sun. You’ll want a jumper and maybe a light jacket for dining outdoors. The famous Fuerteventura winds are still present in December, though typically less aggressive than in summer months. These breezes actually make hiking and cycling far more pleasant than they would be during the sweltering summer months.
The island sees very little rainfall in December – perhaps 3-4 days in the month might have a brief shower. During my fortnight, I experienced exactly one 30-minute downpour, which the locals celebrated with almost religious fervor. Coming from Manchester, where rain is practically a personality trait, I found this utterly charming.
Packing advice: Bring layers! I managed with t-shirts and shorts for daytime, adding a light fleece and jeans for evenings. One waterproof jacket stayed mostly in my suitcase but proved useful during that single rain shower and for wind protection during a boat trip. And for goodness’ sake, bring proper sunscreen – the winter sun is deceptively powerful, especially for us pasty Northerners.
December-Specific Activities: Beyond the Standard Beach Holiday
While summer visitors focus almost exclusively on beaches and pools, Fuerteventura in December opens up a whole different array of possibilities.
1. The Festive Desert Experience
Perhaps the most surreal December activity I enjoyed was a “Christmas in the Desert” tour through the Corralejo dunes. Picture this: riding camels through golden sand dunes decorated with tinsel, ending at a Bedouin-style tent where we enjoyed traditional Canarian Christmas treats while a local choir sang carols. The contrast of festive traditions against the desert backdrop was wonderfully bizarre.
Canarians take Christmas seriously but with their own unique flair. The nativity scenes (belenes) you’ll find throughout the island are works of art, often incorporating the volcanic landscape into their design. The one in Puerto del Rosario town hall featured miniature representations of local landmarks that must have taken months to craft.
2. Whale and Dolphin Watching
Fuerteventura in December brings calmer seas and increased marine activity around the island. I booked a dolphin watching trip from Morro Jable and was rewarded with spectacular sightings of bottlenose dolphins and pilot whales. According to our captain, December is one of the best months for these excursions as the water clarity is excellent and many marine species are migrating through the area.
For the more adventurous, several companies offer winter snorkeling trips that take advantage of the surprisingly warm water (around 19°C/66°F) and excellent visibility. I joined one from Corralejo and spent an enchanting hour swimming alongside curious rays and colorful fish.
3. The Christmas Camel Market
One of the most authentic experiences I had was visiting El Tanque Camel Market near Antigua, which takes place on the first Sunday of December. Far from a tourist attraction, this is a working market where local farmers trade livestock, but visitors are welcomed with typical Canarian hospitality.
The market has expanded to include local crafts and food stalls during December, making it a fascinating cultural experience. I watched elderly farmers haggling over goats in rapid-fire Spanish while munching on freshly fried churros – a proper glimpse into island life you won’t find in the resort areas.
4. Lobos Island Without the Crowds
December is possibly the perfect time to visit the nature reserve of Lobos Island. This small, uninhabited island just off Corralejo’s coast is strictly protected, with visitor numbers limited to prevent environmental damage. In summer, permits sell out weeks in advance, but in December, I secured a same-day booking.
The ferry crossing takes just 15 minutes, depositing you on an pristine volcanic island with crystal-clear waters and well-marked hiking trails. The 2-hour circular route to the old lighthouse offers spectacular views of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. I saw just a handful of other hikers during my visit, compared to the hundreds that crowd the paths in summer.
5. The Popcorn Beaches of El Cotillo
While Fuerteventura’s beaches are famous year-round, December’s unique light and atmospheric conditions make the “popcorn beaches” near El Cotillo especially photogenic. These unusual formations of white coral fragments against black volcanic rocks create a surreal landscape that’s particularly dramatic under December’s softer winter sun.
The lagoons here remain calm even when the open ocean is rough, creating perfect natural swimming pools that are comfortable even in December temperatures. I spent a fascinating afternoon exploring these formations, photographing the interplay of light on the unusual textures.
6. Artisan Cheese Production Tours
December falls within the prime production season for Fuerteventura’s famous Majorero cheese, as the sparse autumn rains bring just enough vegetation for the island’s goats to produce rich milk. Several small producers open their doors for tours during this quieter tourist season.
I visited Quesería Abuelo Maximino near Pájara, where I watched the entire cheese-making process from milking the goats to aging the finished wheels. December visitors get the special treat of tasting the first of the new season’s production – a creamy, mild version that’s completely different from the aged varieties exported to the mainland.
7. Tiscamanita Olive Harvest Festival
If your Fuerteventura in December visit coincides with the first weekend of the month, don’t miss the olive harvest celebrations in the tiny village of Tiscamanita. Despite Fuerteventura’s arid climate, a small but determined community of olive growers has established orchards that produce remarkably good oil.
The festival includes traditional music, demonstrations of old and new harvesting techniques, and of course, plenty of opportunities to taste the freshly pressed olive oil drizzled over local bread. The warm December days and cool evenings create perfect conditions for this agricultural celebration that few summer tourists ever experience.
December Dining: Seasonal Specialties
Fuerteventura’s cuisine takes on a distinctly festive flair in December, with seasonal specialties you won’t find at other times of year:
Puchero Canario
This hearty Canarian stew becomes a menu staple in December when evenings are cool enough to appreciate its warming qualities. Made with chickpeas, sweet potatoes, corn, and various meats, it’s the kind of dish that reminds you food should be a comfort, not just an Instagram opportunity. El Horno restaurant in Corralejo serves a particularly good version that had me contemplating a second helping despite my straining waistband.
Baifo (Kid Goat)
December is traditionally when Canarians prepare roasted kid goat, particularly for holiday celebrations. This tender meat is typically slow-roasted with garlic, herbs, and local wine. It’s not found on every menu, but restaurants catering to locals rather than tourists often feature it as a December specialty. I tried it at a small family-run place in La Oliva called Casa Isaitas, where the grandmother still oversees every dish that leaves the kitchen.
Bienmesabe
This traditional Canarian dessert, whose name literally translates to “tastes good to me,” features prominently during December festivities. Made with ground almonds, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon zest, it’s somewhere between a pudding and a sweet dip. Traditionally served in small glasses, it appears on most restaurant menus during the holiday season. The version at La Jarana in El Cotillo was so good I asked for the recipe (which they graciously provided, though I suspect they left out a secret ingredient or two).
Festive Wines
December is when the first young wines from nearby Lanzarote become available. These light, volcanic-soil wines are celebrated throughout the islands, and many restaurants offer special tasting menus pairing local dishes with different varieties. I particularly enjoyed a crisp white Malvasia with my seafood at El Cotillo harbor – a perfect reminder that winter doesn’t have to mean heavy foods and drinks.
December Festivals: Island Celebrations
Fuerteventura in December offers a wonderful mix of traditional Spanish Christmas celebrations with unique Canarian elements:
- Fiestas de la Concepción (December 8): This celebration honors the Immaculate Conception with processions and music in several towns, particularly Puerto del Rosario. I witnessed the evening procession where a statue of the Virgin Mary was carried through streets illuminated by thousands of candles – atmospheric doesn’t begin to describe it.
- Craft Fairs: Throughout December, artisan markets pop up across the island selling handmade gifts and decorations. These aren’t the commercial Christmas markets we know in the UK, but genuine showcases of local crafts. The weekend market in Corralejo’s main square features live demonstrations of traditional skills like palm weaving and pottery.
- New Year’s Eve Beach Parties: If your stay includes December 31st, prepare for a uniquely Canarian celebration. Rather than crowding into pubs as we do in Manchester, locals head to the beaches at midnight with bottles of cava. The tradition involves eating 12 grapes with the clock strikes and then running into the sea for good luck. I participated in the beach party at Corralejo, though I’ll admit I only managed a toe-dip in the midnight sea rather than a full plunge!
- Los Reyes Magos Preparations: If you’re visiting late December, you’ll see preparations for the Three Kings celebration (January 6th). This is actually the main gift-giving holiday in the Canary Islands, and the excitement builds throughout December with parades and events.
Practical December Travel Tips
From one British winter escapee to another, here’s what I wish I’d known before my December visit:
- Heating (or lack thereof): Canarian homes and even many hotels are built for heat dissipation, not retention. My apartment had tile floors and minimal insulation, which was brilliant during the day but chilly at night. Pack slippers and a light throw if you feel the cold easily.
- Restaurant Hours: Unlike summer when tourist demand keeps kitchens open late, many restaurants revert to more traditional Spanish hours in December. Lunch service typically runs 1-4pm, with dinner from 7-10pm. The upside is you’ll be dining alongside locals rather than just other tourists.
- Christmas Booking: If your stay includes Christmas Eve or Christmas Day, book restaurants well in advance. While not all establishments observe holiday closures, many family-run places close for several days around Christmas.
- Car Rental: December brings substantially lower rental rates – I paid just £18 per day for a compact car, compared to summer rates of £40+. Having wheels is particularly valuable in December when some bus services reduce their frequency.
- Island Hopping: The ferry services to Lanzarote continue through December with reduced schedules but much smaller crowds. Consider a day trip to enjoy two islands in one holiday – the crossing takes just 25 minutes from Corralejo.
- Shopping Hours: Be aware that December 6th (Constitution Day) and December 8th (Immaculate Conception) are public holidays when many smaller shops close. Supermarkets and tourist services generally remain open, however.
Verdict: December is Fuerteventura’s Secret Season
Fuerteventura in December offers that perfect balance – warm enough to enjoy outdoor activities and even beach time, yet cool enough to truly explore the island without melting.
The reduced crowds, lower prices, and opportunity to experience authentic local holiday traditions make it a brilliant alternative to both the British winter gloom and the over-commercialized winter sun resorts elsewhere.
Would I trade another Manchester December for Fuerteventura again? Faster than you can say “another mince pie.” Although next time, I’ll remember to reapply that sunscreen every couple of hours – some lessons need to be learned the pink-nosed way!
Have you experienced Fuerteventura or any of the Canary Islands in December? Drop your tips in the comments below – I’m already planning next year’s escape!
