Today we’re looking at Peñíscola, because this place is absolutely mental – and I mean that in the best possible way. If you’ve ever watched Game of Thrones (and let’s face it, who hasn’t?), then you’ve already seen this incredible fortress town perched dramatically on its rocky peninsula, masquerading as the slave city of Meereen. But trust me, the real thing is even more spectacular than what you saw on telly.
Peñíscola sits on the Castellón coast like some sort of medieval fever dream, jutting out into the Mediterranean on what’s essentially a massive rock connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand. It’s the kind of place that makes you wonder if someone’s having a laugh – surely nowhere this dramatically beautiful can actually exist in real life?
What Makes Peñíscola So Special?
Well, where do I even start? Peñíscola is known for its well-preserved medieval castle known as the Castillo de Peñíscola or the Castle of Papa Luna, and when I say well-preserved, I mean this thing looks like it was built yesterday, not over 700 years ago.
The whole setup is bonkers, really. You’ve got this fortress town sitting 67 metres above the sea, completely surrounded by massive stone walls that the Knights Templar built back in the 13th century. Built by Knights Templar and home to the late pope Benedict XIII, Peniscola Castle is a wonderful location for a day trip away from Valencia. And yes, you read that right – an actual Pope lived here for eight years. More on that mental bit of history in a minute.
What really gets me about Peñíscola is how it manages to be both a proper working town and a tourist attraction without either aspect completely overwhelming the other. People actually live here, in these ancient stone houses within the medieval walls, going about their daily business while thousands of visitors wander about taking photos. It’s a balancing act that a lot of Spanish towns struggle with, but somehow Peñíscola makes it work.
The Knights Templar and Papa Luna: A Proper Bit of History
Before we get carried away with the scenery, let’s give credit where it’s due. The Knights Templar knew what they were doing when they picked this spot for their fortress. You couldn’t ask for a more defensible position – surrounded by sea on three sides, with commanding views in every direction. Any enemy approaching would be spotted miles away.
But here’s where it gets really interesting. Peñíscola was actually home to the Pope for eight years in the 15th century (Pope Benedict XIII, aka Papa Luna), and he turned the castle into his Papal palace. Now, this wasn’t your typical Pope – Benedict XIII was what they call an “antipope,” meaning the Catholic Church wasn’t entirely convinced he was legitimate. Long story short, there was a right old mess in the Church at the time, with multiple people claiming to be Pope.
Papa Luna, as he’s known locally, holed up in Peñíscola Castle from 1417 to 1423, refusing to give up his claim to the papacy even when the rest of the Catholic world had moved on. You’ve got to admire the man’s stubbornness, if nothing else. He literally turned this fortress into his own private Vatican, complete with all the pomp and ceremony you’d expect from a papal court.
The castle still bears his mark today – you can visit his private chambers, see where he held court, and even stand in the room where he died, still claiming to be the rightful Pope. It’s properly atmospheric stuff, and gives the whole place a weight of history that goes well beyond its military origins.
Game of Thrones: When Peñíscola Became Meereen
Now, let’s talk about the elephant in the room – or should I say, the dragon? Peñiscola became Meereen, the northernmost and greatest of the three great city-states in Game of Thrones Season 6, and frankly, it was perfect casting.
Several locations in Peñíscola were used for filming, including Plaza Santa María, Peñíscola Castle, and Parque de la Artillería. The production team didn’t need to do much to transform the place – those medieval walls and narrow cobblestone streets were already the perfect backdrop for Daenerys Targaryen’s reign in Essos.
It is a typical Spanish fortified city with narrow cobbled streets with small cafes and restaurants lining either side. Plaza de Santa Maria and Plaza de Armas are both expected to feature in filming. Walking through these same streets today, you can easily imagine the Mother of Dragons holding court here, and the local tourism office has definitely made the most of the connection.
But here’s the thing – Game of Thrones isn’t the towns only film pedigree. This place has been used as a film set for decades, most famously in the 1961 epic “El Cid” starring Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren. The dramatic setting just lends itself perfectly to cinema, which is why directors keep coming back.
The Beaches: Because It’s Not All About the Castle
Right, here’s something that might surprise you – Peñíscola isn’t just about medieval history and HBO dramas. Peñíscola boasts several stunning beaches, including Playa Norte and Playa Sur where you can swim in the crystal clear water and sunbath on the golden sand.
The setup is absolutely perfect. You’ve got golden sand beaches stretching out on both sides of the fortress peninsula, so whether you’re an early bird who wants to catch the sunrise or prefer to watch the sun set over the water, you’re sorted. Playa Norte is the bigger of the two, with all the usual beach amenities, while Playa Sur tends to be a bit quieter.
What’s mental about the whole arrangement is that you can literally go from exploring a 700-year-old castle to lounging on a Mediterranean beach in about five minutes. Try doing that anywhere else in Europe and see how you get on.
The water’s lovely too – properly clear and surprisingly warm, even well into autumn. I’ve had some brilliant swims here in October when the summer crowds have buggered off but the sea’s still holding onto its warmth from the long, hot Spanish summer.
Getting Around: The Practical Bits
Now, let’s talk logistics, because this is important. The old town of Peñíscola is completely pedestrianised – those narrow medieval streets weren’t exactly designed with Range Rovers in mind. You’ll need to park in one of the car parks outside the walls and walk in.
Don’t worry, it’s not a massive hike. The walk from the main car park to the castle entrance is maybe ten minutes, though it’s uphill all the way. Wear proper shoes – those ancient cobblestones look gorgeous but they’re murder on the ankles if you’re not prepared.
Once you’re inside the walls, everything’s walkable. The whole old town is maybe 300 metres from one end to the other, so you’re not talking about serious distances here. Just be prepared for lots of steps and narrow passages – this isn’t exactly wheelchair accessible, though there are some adapted routes if you need them.
What to Actually Do There
Obviously, the castle’s the main event. An extraordinary and must-see site that was built more than 700 years ago on the remains of an Arab fortress. Tickets can be purchased at El Faro or on the website. The audio guide’s actually worth getting – it’s got some brilliant stories about Papa Luna and the various sieges the place has endured over the centuries.
The views from the castle walls are absolutely mental. On a clear day, you can see for miles up and down the coast, and the photo opportunities are endless. Just try not to spend your entire visit looking at everything through your phone screen – this place deserves your full attention.
Wandering the streets is half the fun, really. It is a typical Spanish fortified city with narrow cobbled streets with small cafes and restaurants lining either side. Duck into the little shops selling local ceramics and honey, grab a coffee in one of the tiny squares, and just soak up the atmosphere.
The lighthouse (El Faro) is worth a visit too, especially at sunset. It’s not ancient like the castle – it was built in the 1890s – but it’s become a bit of a symbol of the town, and the views from up there are spectacular.
Where to Eat: Local Grub Done Right
The restaurants within the old town tend to be a bit touristy, but that doesn’t mean they’re not good. You’ll find plenty of places serving proper Valencian paella (remember, this is still Valencia province), along with fresh seafood that was probably swimming in the Mediterranean this morning.
The local speciality is rice dishes – not just paella, but arroz a banda, arroz negro, and various other rice-based concoctions that the Valencians have perfected over centuries. Don’t expect molecular gastronomy here; this is honest, traditional cooking that’s been feeding fishermen and farmers for generations.
My advice? Look for places where Spanish families are eating, especially if there are three generations around the same table. That’s usually a good sign that the food’s authentic and the prices are reasonable.
Timing Your Visit: When to Go
Summer’s obviously the busiest time, and it can get properly mental in July and August. The heat’s intense, the beaches are packed, and you’ll be queuing for everything. But the atmosphere’s brilliant – there’s nothing quite like a Spanish coastal town in full summer swing.
Spring and autumn are probably ideal, to be honest. May and September/October give you lovely warm weather without the crushing crowds, and the sea’s still warm enough for swimming. The light’s gorgeous too – that golden Mediterranean glow that makes everything look like a film set.
Winter might sound mad, but actually, it’s quite lovely. The tourist crowds disappear completely, the locals reclaim their town, and you get a real sense of what life’s like here when it’s not performance time. Plus, the weather’s often surprisingly mild – this is the Spanish Mediterranean coast, after all.
Getting There: Your Options
Peñíscola’s about an hour and a half north of Valencia by car, or about the same south from Barcelona. The coastal motorway makes it an easy drive, and the signs are clear enough that you’re unlikely to get lost.
If you’re not driving, there are regular bus services from both Valencia and Barcelona, though they’re not exactly frequent. The train gets you to nearby Benicarló, and then you’ll need a local bus or taxi for the final bit.
Most people visit as a day trip, either from Valencia or from one of the nearby coastal resorts. But honestly, if you can swing it, staying overnight is brilliant. Once the day-trippers have gone home, the place transforms completely. You get the medieval streets almost to yourself, and watching the sunset from the castle walls without fighting for space is something special.
Is It Worth the Hype?
Look, I’ve seen a lot of Spanish coastal towns over the years, and most of them fall into one of two categories: either they’re completely overwhelmed by tourism and have lost their soul, or they’re so determined to avoid tourists that they’ve got nothing interesting to offer.
Peñíscola somehow manages to thread the needle. Yes, it gets busy. Yes, you’ll encounter coach loads of tourists and people posing for Game of Thrones selfies. But underneath all that, there’s still a proper Spanish town with real history, genuine character, and enough dramatic beauty to justify all the attention.
The fact that people have been living on this rock for over a thousand years says something about the place. It’s not just a tourist attraction that someone built for Instagram – it’s a living, breathing piece of Spanish history that happens to be spectacularly photogenic.
So yes, it’s worth the hype. Whether you’re a Game of Thrones fan, a history buff, or just someone who appreciates proper Mediterranean drama, Peñíscola delivers. Just don’t expect to have it to yourself – places this special rarely stay secret for long.
If this place is on your bucket list, then it’s about time you visit and get it ticked off!
