Welcome to the Castillo de Arenas de San Pedro—a castle with more drama than your average Spanish soap opera.
Also called the Castle of Don Álvaro de Luna or the Castle of the Sad Countess (Castillo de la Triste Condesa), this Gothic gem isn’t just a pile of old stones. It’s the beating heart of Arenas de San Pedro, packed with history, intrigue, and panoramic views of the Tiétar Valley.
A Little Gothic Soap Opera: The Castillo de Arenas de San Pedro Story
Let’s rewind to the early 1400s. The castle was commissioned by Ruy López Dávalos, High Constable of Castile, shortly after King Enrique III upgraded Arenas from a sleepy village to an official town in 1393. Originally, they planned to build it in nearby Mombeltrán—but the locals there said, “Not on our watch,” so Arenas got its grand fortress instead.
In 1430, the castle was handed over as a wedding gift to Juana Pimentel, who married the mighty Don Álvaro de Luna—a man so powerful, he made Game of Thrones characters look like amateurs.
Unfortunately for Don Álvaro, power attracts enemies, and in 1453 he was executed. Juana, now widowed and heartbroken, spent the rest of her life here, earning the nickname “La Triste Condesa” (The Sad Countess)—and thus, the castle’s most famous title was born.
Since then, the castle has been everything from a noble residence to a prison, a cemetery, and now a municipal auditorium.
Exploring the Castle Today
The Castillo de Arenas de San Pedro is surprisingly well-preserved, with its granite towers, crenellated walls, and dramatic Gothic arches still intact.
Here’s what you’ll see:
- Four circular towers, each about 16 metres tall—perfect for panoramic photos.
- A hefty rectangular keep standing at 26 metres—ideal for imagining dramatic sword fights.
- A central courtyard surrounded by former stables, kitchens, and noble quarters.
- Upper floors now used for exhibitions, cultural events, and the odd concert or two.
It’s a solid afternoon out—especially with tickets costing around €3.
FAQs About Arenas de San Pedro
What’s the best time of year to visit?
Spring and autumn are ideal—mild weather and fewer crowds. Summer can get hot, but the nearby rivers and pools offer a refreshing dip after castle exploring.
How’s the parking situation?
Easy! There’s ample parking in the town centre, and the castle is just a short walk away.
Is the town accessible for visitors with limited mobility?
The town itself is fairly accessible, though the castle has some stairs and uneven stone areas—unsurprising for a 600-year-old fortress.
Where’s the best viewpoint for photos?
Climb the castle towers for sweeping views of the Tiétar Valley and Sierra de Gredos mountains.
What’s the local market like and when is it held?
Fridays are market day here—great for picking up local honey, cheeses, and handmade crafts.
Other Must-See Spots in Arenas de San Pedro
Águila Caves
Just 6 km away, these caves are packed with dramatic stalactites and magical underground views—perfect for cooling off after a sunny day exploring. You can read all about the caves here and plan your trip there.
San Pedro de Alcántara Sanctuary
A peaceful religious retreat with stunning gardens and a rather famous thornless rose bush believed to be miraculous (no promises, though).
Mosquera Palace
An elegant 18th-century residence that’s worth a visit if you fancy more tales of nobles, with impressive architecture and lovely gardens.
How to Get There
By Car: Around 2 hours from Madrid via the A-5 motorway—easy, scenic, and ideal for a weekend escape.
By Public Transport: Direct buses from Madrid’s Estación Sur to Arenas de San Pedro run regularly. Once there, everything’s walkable. Check Omio for times and tickets.
Closest Airport: Madrid-Barajas Airport is the nearest major airport, about 2 hours away.
Wildlife & Hiking Nearby
Arenas de San Pedro isn’t just about castles and caves—it’s surrounded by natural beauty, too. Nearby hiking trails lead into the Sierra de Gredos, where you’ll likely spot:
- Spanish ibex scaling cliffs like it’s a casual stroll.
- Griffon vultures gliding over valleys.
- Otters along the rivers if you’re lucky and patient.
Final Thoughts On The Castillo de Arenas de San Pedro
The Castillo de Arenas de San Pedro isn’t just a castle—it’s the beating heart of this lively town, where history and legend blur together. Between tragic countesses, epic mountain views, and tasty Friday market snacks, this little corner of Ávila has more than enough to keep you entertained for a day (or three).
Come for the castle, stay for the caves, the wildlife, and a slice of timeless Spanish charm. If you enjoy castles, this is a nice one to visit.
